I was really happy with how the flour and water mixture tried quickly on the face and how much I liked the effect it gave! It worked really well when it was on clean skin so I needed to test it out and see if it worked when layered with the red base colour.
I first applied the red super colour onto the face, then I powdered the skin with a red powder. I then layered the mixture of water and flour all over the face until it was at the thickness that I wanted. After the layer dried, I lightly brushed over the mixture with some white skin base to give it a very white look.
I am so happy and excited by the results! They are exactly what I as hoping for! The skin looks thick and white and it is cracked all over which is how I wanted it to look. The red super colour is showing through the cracks, making it looks very painful looking and sore. I wanted this to look like what I think the Elizabethan makeup would have looked like in real life, as opposed to how Elizabeth tried to portray her makeup to look like. I am really happy with these results and I will be using this technique in my final design.
I have been concerned with the amount of time the fullers earth has been taking to dry and do not think this would work with the limited time that we have in assessment; I therefore thought that I'd try using a different material to create a similar effect. I thought that mixing flour and water would work because it would dry on the face and crack and it is also white which makes it so much easier!
Mixture just applied to the face, still wet.
Mixture drying on face.
Dry mixture with layer of white skin base.
I am really happy with the thick, glopey and cracking texture that is created when I let the flour and water dry and then added the white skin base over the top. I especially love the area around the chin because more cracks have formed and the mixture looks a lot thicker. This mixture didn't take as long as the fullers earth to dry which is great because there will be more time to complete the look in the time given. I also think I prefer the outcome of this rather than the fullers earth because the fullers earth looks more like snake skin, whereas this looks more like bumpy skin. I am really happy with how this has turned out and am excited to see what it looks like when I add the red layer underneath!
As I had mentioned previously in my 'Developing My Final Design Ideas' post that I wanted to make the layer underneath the fullers earth look red and patchy to represent what the toxic mixture of white lead and vinegar would do to the skin. I decided to first apply red super colour to the skin and set it with a red powder. I then applied a layer of fullers earth on top, trying to cover all of the red skin underneath. I let the fullers earth dry and then.
Experimentation on arm.
I first decided to experiment with this method on my arm and I really liked the effect of the bright red coming through the clay. It almost reminded me of lava which I liked because it gives a painful and sore look. I tested out layering some white super colour on top and I really liked the effect so I tried it out on my face.
Red super coloured applied to skin.
Thin layer of fullers earth applied on top.
Drying fullers earth.
Illamasqua skin base in white on top.
White super colour applied on top.
Before applying either of the white layers on top of the fullers earth I was really happy with the red showing through; however once I added the white on top, the red was covered more than I would have liked. When I applied the white skin base, more red shows through, but that also means that more of the grey colour of the fullers earth showed through too, which I didn't like. I applied the white super colour over the top to make the clay look more white, but this covered up too much of the red. I think maybe a hard sponge would work because then only the top layer would get white colouring it.
I am becoming increasingly concerned with the amount of time the fullers earth is taking to dry! I have tried using a hair dryer, and yes it does speed up the process, but only by a bit and not enough to be able to do this within the time limit. If I wanted to use the fullers earth, my skin would have to be prepped first with a layer of fullers earth for it to dry in time and I don't think that's a good idea. I will therefore think of an alternative material to use for this makeup look.
In today' s lesson we were asked to practice blocking out eyebrows and then to incorporate that with one of two makeup looks. I chose the image below, with the very pale skin and dark eyes and lips.
I think my eyebrow blocking technique is improving because I think I got the texture of the eyebrows closer to being flat, however I think I could improve on making the eyebrows look the same colour as the skin and also I could make them even flatter against the skin.
To improve the look I think I would take the eyeshadow even higher towards the eyebrow because I think it would have hidden the eyebrows better, and I would blend the edges more to make them look softer. I would also make the lips darker, just like in the makeup look I was using for inspiration. I am happy with the contouring because I think it gives the model very defined looking cheekbones, but I may have brought the colour further towards the mouth. This is definitely not my favourite look that I have done as there are a lot of things I think I could improve on.
For my final look I decided that instead of applying a thick layer of fullers earth, I would only apply a thin layer because the thick layer took over an hour to dry and I think the thinner layer looked more crusty which I preferred.
Step by Step:
1. I first applied white super colour in a thin layer all round my eyes to get a smooth, even coverage.
2. I then applied white super colour to the eyelashes and eyebrows using a disposable mascara wand, and making sure to brush te eyebrow hairs backwards.
3. I applied translucent powder all over the super colour with a powder puff.
4. I then applied the fullers earth, in a thin layer, all over the face but avoiding round the eyes.
Wet fullers earth
Dry fullers earth
5. I waited for the fullers earth to fully dry and I then applied some white super colour all over the fullers earth, making sure that it is even and that the edges are blended. I used a foundation brush for this.
6. I then powdered over the top of the fullers earth with talcum powder to give it a very powdery look.
7. I then added the lighter pink shadow on the upper nose and into the brow, under the cheekbone and on te lips, using a flat eyeshadow brush.
8. I next added the darker pink shadow on top of these areas where I want more definition e.g. The centre of the lips.
I wasn't completely happy with this makeup look as I felt it didn't have enough colour; however when I added the extra bit of pink on the side of the forehead I think it brought the whole look together and also gave the face more dimension.
Final look.
Final look.
In my final look I wanted it to show the contrast between what the Queen Elizabeth I portrayed her makeup to look like through her portraits and also how their makeup would actually look like in person. The rough, flakey, textured looking skin round the face represents the toxic mixture of white lead and vinegar that the Elizabeth women would have used on the face. Then the smooth, even, soft looking skin around the eyes and nose represents what Queen Elizabeth I wanted people to think her skin looked like. I really like the contrast between the two textures and think it adds a unique and contemporary twist to my makeup look. I used a rosy pink colour for the contour as that is the colour that the Elizabethan women subtly wore on their cheeks and lips; however I modified the placement of this colour to give the look a strong, contoured look, which is more popular in today's society.
I think in my final look I will not take the pink colour above the eyebrow and I will just keep it underneath and in the eyebrow hairs. I may also experiment with not making the makeup around the upper nose so sharp as I think it is to much of a contrast against the softer lips and colour on the forehead. I think I may add more red to make the pink colour look more rosy, which would be more like the colour that the Elizabethan women wore on their cheeks and lips. I really like the contrast between the very smooth skin and the bushy, textured eyebrows. In my final look I will try to make the eyebrows even more white so that the colour blends in more with the skin. I am really excited to experiment with these points and apply the makeup look to the whole face.
The Elizabethan era was famous for its explorers, writers and poets, including Sir Walter Raleigh and Shakespeare, and of course Queen Elizabeth. In this second Elizabethan era we have also had famous explorers, writers and poets, such as Edmund Hillary and Graham Greene; however I think the people that have the biggest influence on my generation are famous TV, film and music celebrities. I have therefore chosen Beyonce as my new Elizabethan because she is one of the most well-known singers of the 21st century.
Both these women were/are very powerful and influential in different ways. Queen Elizabeth ruled a very rich and powerful country, whereas Beyonce has the power to influence her fans' behaviour and expectations of life. Beyonce and Queen Elizabeth both showed that they were independent women. Queen Elizabeth refused to get married as she wanted to run the country alone, without a man to her side. Beyonce, on the other hand, is constantly pushing womens' independence through her performances, for example her single 'Run the World' is all about how women should get the chance to run the world (video clip above). They were both idolised by their fans. They influenced fashion in their eras, for example Queen Elizabeth was thought of as beautiful, so whatever she did to the colour of her skin or whatever she wore was instantly replicated by the Elizabethan women. It is the same with Beyonce, just not quite to the same extent; if Beyonce is seem wearing a certain brand of clothing or a new hairstyle then her fans will want what she's got. There are many magazines showing people how to 'Get the Look' of celebrities, Beyonce being a regular on these pages. They were both very wealthy women, with Beyonce having an estimated net worth of $536 million, and they both live in luxury. Both Beyonce and Elizabeth I had a big entourage that looked after them, gave them advice and helped with their public image. Queen Elizabeth's entourage would have supported her at court and Beyonce's would support her for any public appearances or performances that she may have. Both Beyonce and Queen Elizabeth I were both very careful about their public image; Queen Elizabeth I would not let any portraits be released of her until she has seen them and said that they were acceptable because as she got older she still wanted the country to see her as the beautiful virgin Queen. Beyonce is also very aware of the importance of her public image, making sure that she is never photographed or seen smoking, taking drugs or drinking alcohol and she is very careful with the amount of photographs seen of her child. They both knew that their public image could make or break them.
Beyonce's Mrs Carter Tour Advert http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/02/04/article- 2273116-1755B4B4000005DC-749_306x451.jpg
This image of Beyonce screams Elizabethan at me. This is a still from Beyonce's Mrs Carter tour advert and it exudes wealth and power through the setting, music choice and styling. This still is very similar to the Rainbow Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I and it is clear that both images have been carefully constricted with the image that they want to portray to their audience. At the beginning of the advert there are people dressing Beyonce, tightening her corset and adorning her with jewels, just as they would have done in the Elizabethan era. The advert is set in a luxurious and royal looking palace, with gold furnishings, expensive paintings and diamond chandeliers and there is even an Elizabethan looking portrait of Beyonce on the wall.
Beyonce's outfit is very Elizabethan with the colours, shapes and jewels. Beyonce's high collar, with lace and jewels, is very similar to the styling of Elizabeth I in the Rainbow Portrait. Beyonce's waist has been tightened and accentuated which was a very popular look by the Elizabethan women. Her whole outfit is encrusted with jewels and pearls which were both worn by Elizabeth I to represent her high wealth and nobility. Beyonce and Elizabeth I, in the Rainbow Portrait, have both got long flowing sleeves and what look like cloaks. The gold and deep blue colours in Beyonce's outfit were both colours that Queen Elizabeth would wear to show off her wealth, royalty and nobility. Beyonce has added a modern twist to her outfit, using a frame to suggest the shape of the big skirts that the Elizabeth women used to wear. Beyonce is wearing very expensive looking jewellery, with jewels and pearls, which Elizabeth I also wore in her Rainbow Portrait.
Her makeup was a lot stronger looking in this advert than the women would have worn in the Elizabethan times, with the dark eyebrows and dark eyes. However Beyonce wears a bright pink blush and no noticeable contouring, which is similar to the rosy blush the Elizabethan women would have worn. Beyonce is also wearing a red lip which resembles the softer looking red/pink lip that Elizabeth I wore. Beyonce is looking into the camera lens, just as Queen Elizabeth would look at the viewer in her portraits, which I think shows their confidence and that they want to engage with their audience. Beyonce's skin is not looking as tanned as it sometimes does, which I think reflects the pale/white complexion that the Elizabethan women were after. Beyonce's hair is very similar to how Queen Elizabeth's was styled in her Rainbow Portrait. Both their hair has texture to it and I think they have both been crimped to create the frizzy effect and the body in both hair styles. They both look like they have used padding to give them the body and height and they have both got a rounded shape. However Beyonce's is a modernised version, with it being a bit looser and falling to one side. They have both got tendrils falling down to their shoulders; however Beyonce's are smaller and look more messy and random, whereas Elizabeth I's is a lot more controlled and only the hair from the back in down. They are both wearing jewel encrusted crowns on their heads to symbolise royalty and wealth.
I knew that I wanted the skin around the eyes to be very smooth and even look and I wanted it white, so I used the white super colour and, using my foundation brush, applied a thin, even layer of the product. I then coated the eyelashes in white super colour. I put white super colour in the eyebrows, but felt they looked like I had tried to cover them up, but it had gone wrong. I therefore decided to give them more texture, by brushing the white super colour against the direction of hair growth and I really like the effect that this gave!
Lips
I wanted the lips to be the same colour as the contour and eye makeup and I didn't want them to be too harsh. I therefore decided to use the same eyeshadow colours used on the rest of the face, on the lips. This would mean that the lips would have a soft edge and the colour would look less painted on.
